Home / DOMESTIC / Dodge Neon / SRT-4 / / AGP T3/T04 Turbocharger Upgrade Kit SRT-4

The factory TD04LR-15GK-6cm turbocharger is...well, let's just say it gives us the opportunity to improve the turbocharger design for the 2003 and up SRT-4. The integrated manifold and turbine housing design, along with the reversed rotating blades, does not lend an easy turbo upgrade path. We can upgrade the stock compressor wheel to a reverse rotation 16G and machine the compressor housing to fit the larger wheel. However, with an upgraded compressor wheel the exhaust manifold pressure to intake manifold pressure ratio soars past 4:1. Modifying the TD04L turbine wheel (clipping) brings the ratio down closer to 3:1, however you are reducing turbine efficiency, and a 3:1 backpressure ratio reduces the engine's volumetric efficiency tremendously. Let the 2.4 breathe!

Fast-forward to today. We have developed a complete replacement manifold, turbocharger, external wastegate, and O2 housing kit that will allow for endless possibilities. Whether you are into drag racing, road racing, autocross, or stoplight-to-stoplight performance, we can build a setup custom tailored to your needs.

This kit starts off with a new exhaust manifold centered around the Garrett T31 High Flow 4 bolt outlet turbine housing. Turbo placement is a key variable in this design, because of the clearance with the engine and firewall. Rest assured, the centerline placement of the turbocharger allows for enough room so you DO NOT have to "convince" your firewall. NO DENTING OR HACKING OF THE FIREWALL NEEDED with our kit.

We have gotten well over 700whp and 650ft lbs of torque using this turbo kit on the SRT. This turbo kit has allowed many, many of our customers well over 400whp on pump gas. The manifold has been extensively tested to deliver fast spool up and a broad flat torque curve. In comparisons with long runner tubular manifolds it makes power 500rpm quicker and with no compromise of top end power. AGP turbo kits make more power under the curve than any other turbo.

The next step is integrating the highest quality and perfectly matched turbo assembly into the mix. As our base turbo, we've chosen the AGP 3147 turbocharger. This features a T3T4 based oil cooled center housing, a 47lb/min compressor wheel stuffed inside a T04B compressor housing with a 3" inlet and 2" outlet. The turbine side features a custom stage 3 turbine wheel surrounded in the higher flowing newly designed 4 bolt outlet T31 .63 A/R turbine housing manufactured specifically for the highest flowing performance. We do not use the decades-old OEM designed 5 bolt turbine housing due to its flow restrictions at high pressure ratios. (We are NOT building a 7 psi Honda Turbo Kit here, so why would we use inferior parts.) We add an elbow to the compressor housing so that it will line up to your factory charge pipe with a little modification.

The Turbonetics Evolution external wastegate has been the choice among racers in all industries. We needed a way to properly manage the exhaust flow to the turbine as to prevent any unwanted boost creep, but still allow enough control for those wanting to put the engine to its limits. The Evolution gate does this perfectly with a few different spring rates (all spring rates included in the kit). We vent the external wastegate to the atmosphere to keep turbine efficiency the highest as possible. We don't want wasted gasses and turbine gasses to fight each other downstream and create unwanted backpressure. For an additional cost, we now offer a wastegate reroute kit.

The same quality of craftsmanship that has gone into our seven and eight-second turbo drag motorcycles, and our nine and ten second DSM parts, goes into our SRT-4 products. We know what parts will work in the real world (not on paper with some photoshop drawing), and what parts won't.

Now that you know what goes into the AGP kit, here is a little help on selecting the turbo that is right for your particular setup. There is no perfect turbo for your car. You cannot just look at a map and engine and say "this is the perfect turbo" and expect it to work for everyone. If you want to autocross, your turbo will be different from someone who is roadracing, who is drag racing, who is street racing, who is just wanting a fun car. This is why there are so many turbos and selecting the right turbo is important. I'll try not to get too technical and just lay out the basics for an SRT4.

Bigger turbos flow more air, but due to the size, take longer to spool. By matching the correct wheels and housings, you can minimize lag, and still make good power. All numbers given are best case scenario. Many things can affect power. The HP numbers are at the extreme limits of a turbo and not to be expected for everyone. While 50 trims in perfect setups have done over 500hp, it should not be expected. Remember the parts are only as successful as the person or persons installing and tuning them.

3147: This is the base turbo included in the kit. The turbo is perfect for those who want way more power than the stock turbo make, but don't want to go overboard with supporting mods. Our base fuel kit and 750cc injectors without a return line will max this turbo out. You will see full boost around 3000-3100rpm in most conditions, and the turbo will support 430whp if you feel that you need to turn up the boost to 28. If you are on a tight budget, this base turbo will give you everything you need. THIS TUBRO OPTION HAS BEEN DISCONTINUED

50 trim: This is the best matched turbo for the 2.4L motor for street/strip purposes. Spools fast, and makes great power. This turbo is perfect for those wanting to make big power on pump gas and go to the track once in a while at run some 11's. If you plan to run nothing but pump gas, and want the best street turbo, then this is your turbo. Full boost should be right around 3200-3300rpms with a .63 A/R turbine housing. On our test cars, we've pulled over 420whp on pump gas at 23psi. The maximum boost is around 30psi where we have seen 500whp. If these numbers are big enough for you, then look no further and order a 50 trim.

Now there's another 50 trim option. We have released a ceramic ball bearing 50 trim turbocharger that gives you all the same features as the 50 trim we've become to love, now with quicker spoolup. Ceramic ball bearings provide less rotational friction that will allow for quicker initial spoolup, and better transient response. If you want everything, get the 50 trim Ball Bearing. It's an extra $500 on top of the $1900 base price, but if you want the ultimate spoolup characteristics, it's worth it. New water lines are included in the price.

60-1: Now were getting into the big turbos. A 60-1 can make well over 500whp, support 32psi, and be a nasty turbo. Full boost is around 3400-3500 in a .63 A/R turbine housing. This is a good race turbo but on pump gas is much less efficient than the 50trim. You wil need a built motor to take advantage of the extra power this turbo will make. At 30psi it will make 40-50hp more than the 50 trim but at 20psi will usually make ~20hp less. This turbo is ony recommended if you have a built motor and care more about race performance than street performance.

HP61 This is a big turbo. 600whp is possible if you dare to run over 35 psi. Full boost around 3700-3800. The stage 5 turbine wheel is needed on this turbo to get all the air out. Its not needed on the smaller turbos, and will just add unwanted lag to the smaller ones. The smaller ones operate at an acceptable backpressure ratio with a stage 3 . This big bad boy on the other hand, flows so much air, that a stage 5 wheel is needed. This is for someone wanting to run 10s. This combination can be used on a street car, but the additional lag is not that fun, then again, the additional power may bring a smile to your face. You can run well over 35psi on this turbo. Big injectors are needed; minimum 750cc.

We also offer the HP61 in Ball Bearing for quicker initial spoolup and transient response. New water lines are included in the price.

HP66 This is a big, big turbo. 700whp is possible if you dare to run 40psi. Full boost around 4000-4500 depending on turbine option. We recommend a minimum of the stage 5 turbine wheel, however to get the full potential, a P trim turbine wheel, .82 A/R turbine housing, and the 4" inlet T04S compressor housing is advised. Big injectors are needed; minimum 750cc, and we highly recommend a built engine and a standalone fuel management system like the AEM EMS.

We also offer the HP66 in Ball Bearing for quicker initial spoolup and transient response. New water lines are included in the price.

There are plenty of other options we can do for you if you have your heart set on a custom turbo setup. We are a full turbo shop with custom machining that could give you anything you desire. Please call us and discuss your options. We also offer a polished compressor housing ($100) as well as polishing the stainless steel heat shield($50). We are now offering ceramic coating to the manifold, turbine housing, o2 housing, and dump tube for those who want the ultra 'bling' setup for an additional $400. Polishing and ceramic coating may add additional build time to your order.

All of our turbos except the 3147 use a t04e compressor cover. It has a 3" inlet. Anything bigger doesn't like to fit and can add unwanted lag. Because of the 3" inlet, we suggest using a 3" intake such as the wonderful AGP CAI. The 3147 uses a T04B compressor cover also with a 3" inlet.

A/R ratios This relates to the internal volume of the turbine housing. A larger a/r will flow more air, support more power, but spool later. For almost all applications we suggest a .63 a/r. All the numbers quoted above are with a .63 a/r. We us the new 4 bolt housings that flow better than the 5 bolt housings. A .48 is suggested if you want fast spool. A .48 will still make over 400hp no issues, however we will always recommend the .63 for great balance of overall power and spoolup.

Spool time Spool can vary from car to car. There is no hard number to give. The condition of the motor, intake, exhaust, tuning and tons of other factors affect spool. In lower gears, the turbo spools slower. Spool numbers are normally quoted time to max boost in 4th gear. The turbo usually is pulling hard 500-600rpms before max boost as boost is coming on. Take this into account when looking at spool numbers. Our turbos spool fast because we properly match them and use the right parts. Putting a stage 5 on a 50/60 trim will just add tons of lag and thats why we do not do it.

What do I need for a turbo upgrade? To bolt the turbo on, you only need two items: a 3" intake and external BOV. You can use a smaller intake and use some sort of adapter, but it will just restrict the turbo. We now offer a wonder UHP with a threaded sensor that goes great with our turbo kits. Other pipes blow the temp sensor under high boost, but out unique design prevents this from happening. Exhaust is going to help with spool and power. We suggest a full 3" system. The mopar system is only 2.5" and small for high power applications. We sell the B&B systems, but any good high quality mandrel bent 3" system will be sufficient.

Fuel System. With more air, you will need more fuel. On a stock car, we have got 310whp on a t3/t4 kit. It didn't have the fuel to support any more power. Larger injectors and fuel pump, along with something to control the injectors is needed. We suggest 750cc RC. They will provide enough fuel until the aftermarket fuel pump can not support more which is around 530fwhp. We recommend the Turbo XS DTEC or Apexi SAFC2 to control the injectors. They are easy to install, easy to use, easy to tune, and don't require a laptop or anything. They also can store more than 1 map, for racegas and pump gas. We now have base maps for almost any setup provided free of charge with a fuel system/turbo kit purchase. This is a great way to get you started.

How to get big power? Want over 400whp? Then you need to properly setup the car and have the mods needed to do this. Any of the turbos we sell can easily reach this number. A quality high flow exhaust is a must. A 2.5" exhaust such as the mopar system can be restrictive at higher boost/power levels. Same thing with intakes. As you make more power, the more the intake and exhaust will affect the car. So making sure you have a good system on is important. A quality 3" intake with a good high flow filter is essential to making good power. The difference between one intake and another can be as much as 50hp, which has been dyno proven. The difference between one exhaust can easily be 20-30hp. That is why getting quality parts the 1st time is important. Another important piece is the intercooler. Intercoolers can make a huge difference. While the SRT4 comes with a FMIC factory, it is not a very good unit. On a stock car we've seen 10-18whp on the dyno. On a larger turbo, we've seen 40-50hp increases. We've had a customer go from running 111mph traps to 118mph traps with just the change of a FMIC. We sell two very good intercoolers. Any of the three AGP FMICs and Spearco FMICs are the best intercoolers on the market, also dyno proven.

Support/Service We stand behind our products and do everything we can do make our customers happy. If you have any issues, questions, comments please contact us. If anyone has any questions after reading this guide, or wants further detail, then please contact us. There is so much more that goes into this that what is covered.

Reliability A big question that we get alot is "Can I have a reliable car with one of these turbo kits" The answer is yes. As long as the car is safely tuned and has the proper supporting mods, then there is no reason that the car cannot be a perfect daily driver. Many owners report that gas mileage increases and the car has much better street manners than a bone stock SRT4. No more part throttle boost, boost spikes, crazy torque spikes, fluttering, surging or many other issues associated with the stock turbo. Power will come on nicely and pull hard all the way to redline. Boost is easy to control with any quality boost controller. The turbos will give years of life as long as they are fed quality oil and you prevent any foreign objects from entering them.

Mopar Stages A very common question is what stage ECU, or will this work with my stage 0/1/2/3 etc system. Any of our turbo kits will work with any of the stages.

Stage 0- Works great and is my personal favorite. EDTIP mod and fooling the 2nd o2 sensor if no cat is on the car is needed if you don't want any CE lights, but those are both free and easy to do. Without the AGP fuel system, boost should be limited to low levels depending on the turbo, because of the size of injectors. 13-14psi is safe, while some people have ran 15-16 after checking a/f on a wideband o2 sensor. With the fuel kit, you can run as much boost as you want and make big power.

Stage 1- Some people say stage 1 is easier to tune with. No special procedures to avoid CE lights needs to be done. Everything else is the same as stage 0.

Stage 2- Stage 2 has larger injectors which allow you to run slightly more boost than stage 0/1 without the fuel system upgrade. Many have stage 2 and want a larger turbo. We have tons of customers running this setup. I would suggest a 50 trim as the perfect mate to stage 2. Bolting it on and 16-17psi should make 330-340hp. Without the fuel kit this will be the limit of what stage 2 can do. For alot of people, that is a great setup. Later you can always add the AGP fuel system.

Now that you've read the Turbo guide, order a kit, make great power, be happy.

ALL TURBO KITS INCLUDE- AGP T3/T4 manifold, Turbo of your choise, Turbonetics Evolution wastegate, dump tube, 2.5" to 3" O2 housing, oil feed and drain lines, gaskets, nuts and bolts, Stainless Steel heatshield, aluminum overflow bottle. Available turbine housings - .48, .63, .82. Optional turbine wheels - Stage 3, Stage 5 or P trim.

This setup can be configured with other options as well. Email or call us for a quote. Most configurations ship out within a week of order.

Stripper Kit does not include the heat shield and overflow bottle, and saves you $150!!!